Merida Antiques

If you’re expecting to find huge antique stores in Merida like the ones you know back home, you are likely to be disappointed. The business of buying and selling antiques here is not a time-honored practice. Yes, around the early 20th Century, Merida was swimming in money, and people imported and built a lot of beautiful furniture and fixtures. They also imported and created many works of art. But these beautiful things are mostly kept in the family. Any antiques that were put on the market were instantly snapped up, either by people renovating and furnishing the haciendas, or by exporters who took them out of Yucatan and into the U.S. or Europe. Most modern Yucatecos have been more interested in new things, from houses to the furniture that goes into them, so local demand for antiques has not been strong either.

Of course these conditions, like everything else around here, are changing. The expatriate Norteamericanos and Europeans who have been moving here are hungry for beautiful old things. And gradually, there are more and more people willing to let go of those things, for a price of course. So it follows that there are people starting businesses to gather and sell them.

We’re building a new home in the style of the old colonials, using local materials and following many traditional construction practices. Our house will have high ceilings, mosaico floor tiles, stone, wrought iron, columns and arches. When we are including wood in our design, such as in doors and windows, we are looking for old pieces that we can refurbish and reuse. It seems to us that this both lends our new house a feeling of history and it allows us to recycle and reuse these beautiful hardwoods instead of cutting down new trees. Plus, it’s fun to hunt for them!

In addition to the old local doors, there are a few places in town that import pieces from other countries that either look old or really are old, which work well for our lifestyle and this climate.

In our experience, Merida’s antique dealers are honest and enjoyable to deal with. Many of them can restore the pieces you buy. Most of them will also deliver your purchases for a small extra charge.

As usual, we’re sure our list is not complete. If you know of a good place that we should add, please leave a comment or email us! Also, as you’ll see, some of these places do not appear to even have names. We will attempt to add photos over the next few weeks to make them more recognizable, so check back. We’re providing you with addresses and phone numbers if we have them, but directions? You didn’t think we were going to make it THAT easy, did you?

Of course, finding old architectural pieces is not a science, it’s an art. And it depends a lot on serendipity, timing and your pocketbook. Despite the fact that by telling you where to find a window frame or colonial door we are increasing the competition for these precious things, we think a healthy market for antiques will only serve to support the current antique sellers and possibly encourage more to surface. And so, with no further ado…

El Bazar
a.k.a. Dr. Guzman’s House
Dr. Roberto Guzman is handsome, cultured and gracious. He has a fine eye for good antiques and probably carries the most dependably beautiful and valuable antiques in town. He has connections with many of the old families and often has goods on consignment. His store is in a house next door to the house he lives in. It has everything from doors to furniture to santos to paintings. The house itself is an antique, as he gathered pieces from many old houses in the area that were torn down and incorporated them into the house that is his store. Be sure to appreciate the old tiled kitchen under the beautiful stone arch. It is probably worth noting that of all the antique dealers we have met here so far, Dr. Guzman is probably the only one who speaks English.
Location: Calle 19 #201-D x 22 y 24, Col. García Gineres
Hours: Mon thru Fri, 9 AM to 1 PM and 5 PM to 8 PM; Sat 9 AM to 1 PM
Cel: 044-999-157-6636

Antiguedades Jorge
Proprietor: Jorge I. Vázquez Gomez
Jorge’s store is in two large bodegas behind his house. He also can usually be found in Parque Santa Lucia on Sunday mornings until about noon. Jorge is a scavenger supreme and has many wonderful old things that other people might not think to pick up. Need an old lock? Maybe you’d like some old pharmaceutical bottles? A rusty old tricycle? How about an old Mayan doll? A lantern? Jorge probably has it. And old hammock hooks, nails, screws, door pulls, chains, floor tiles. You probably won’t find refined antiques at Jorge’s, but you might find an old pipe stand that reminds you of your grandfather.
Location: Calle 21 Loe 4 Bis x 38 y 38-A, Col. San Pedro Uxmal, Chuburná
Hours: Whenever you can catch him
Cel: 044-999-163-6596

Antiguedades by Julio
Proprietor: Julio Alfaro Bates
Julio’s old store was in a rundown colonial that made it hard to tell the building from the junk. His new store is a big old corner colonial building that is so full of things, it is still hard to see some of what’s there, but at least it isn’t in any danger of falling down. Julio specializes in furniture and he employs a crew that is wonderful at restoring the furniture he finds. Behind the house, you’ll find doors, statues, tiles and stone for your perusing pleasure. Julio can also usually be found in Parque Santa Lucia on Sunday morning. Besides "buying" and "selling", his card advertises "restoration" and "valuation". If you are looking for a beautiful piece and didn’t find it at Guzman’s, Julio should probably be your next stop.
Location: Calle 75 at Calle 72, across from Parque San Sebastian
Hours: He seems to be open most days, normal business hours
Cel: 044-999-151-9030

Luna del Oriente
Proprietor: Jeff and Deb Ullrich
If you aren’t married to the idea of Mexican or Yucatecan antiques, but just want something old and beautiful, the new kid in town is Luna del Oriente. Jeff and Deb are Asia-philes who have traveled and lived in Asia, speak Chinese and paid a lot of attention during history lessons. They go through a lot of pain, heartache, travel and aduana (Customs) meetings so that we can have beautiful Chinese armoires and Indian headboards here in Merida. They are also building custom doors from wood reclaimed in those countries, as well as reclaiming doors from old buildings. The furniture and doors that they have for sale are mostly from tropical climates originally, so they are well suited to our architecture and environment. New shipments are always coming in, so check back often.
Location: On Calle 65 just east of Calle 68 on the north side of the street, Col. Centro
Hours: Call for an appointment for now
Cel: 999-247-2953

Bazar Bagdag
Proprietor: Israel Koh Bonilla
This old store just recently decided to have a name (which we suspect is supposed to be "Bagdad" but we’re just reporting what’s printed on the business card). It was right down the street from where we used to live, and we have enjoyed watching over the years the various treasures and junk that Israel has managed to scrounge up from around the area. He has a good eye for kitsch as well as quality, and you’ll find everything from a solid armoire to an old maiden aunt’s fur stole. You just never know what you’re going to find, so it pays to drop by often.
Location: Calle 49 #504 x 62 y 60, Col. Centro
Hours: Yes
Cel: 044-999-139-9508

The Antique Lot
Proprietor: Luis Herrera Peréz
This place has no name, so we’ve just given it one. Luis and his associates have an open lot where they store the things they find in their constant forays. In our latest visit we found old glass water bottles, sewing machine tables, a few French roof tiles, protectores, doors, stone statues, school desks and a whole lot more. Luis has a regular stock of wooden furniture (tables, roperos, vitrines, etc.) that he restores on site. He also sometimes makes things to order. Recently he had some lovely carved floor easels that we thought were a little expensive, but awfully pretty. Hmmm… maybe we should go back. Another time he had a huge stone fountain with a carved head from which the water flowed. Mysterious and obviously very old. It was gone in less than two weeks.
Location: The corner of Calle 50 and Calle 81, Col. Centro
Hours: Most days
Cel: We don’t have a number for Luis. It’s best to just show up.

Cecelia’s Place
Proprietor: Cecelia and her son
Again, a place with no apparent name. But if you love to look for diamonds in the rough, then this will be fun. Cecelia has a huge room full of junk, and more in the driveway on the side. A few things up front are dusted off, but mostly you are on your own. Out front she sells old books to passers by, but if you ask permission, you can walk around in the back. You may discover old magazines, chamber pots, record albums, chotchkes, soda bottles, textbooks… and a lot of dust. A list of things we’ve bought at Cecelia’s? Old watch springs, a minature Coca Cola bottle with coke in it, a miniature rooster, a few old books, a wooden vitrine for our Day of the Dead altar, two small handmade wooden chairs, and a little wooden side table that we had to throw out a year later because it was rotting away. Fun!
Location: On Calle 61 just east of Calle 64 on the south side of the street, Col. Centro
Hours: Weekdays, about 10 AM to 5 PM, but no promises
Cel: No idea. Frankly, we’re not even sure her name is Cecelia.

Vintage
Proprietor: Arq. Maria José Cetina Cachón
We were so pleased to see this store open when it did, about two years ago now. The owner is a young woman who appreciates the Retro style and has gone about combing the local area for antiques and mementos of the mid 20th Century. We walked in there the first time and saw our first transistor radio from the 1960’s. There is a section of the store that has clothes, both new and used. And there are some new things of a retro design. But there are some wonderful old things too. And we especially love how she integrated the old mosaicos into the floor of the store… very whimsical and different.
Location: Calle 60 #428 x 47 y 49, Col. Centro
Hours: Mon-Fri 10 AM to 2 PM, 5 PM to 8 PM, Sat 10 AM to 2 PM, 5 PM to 9 PM
Phone: 924-4542

Other Places to check out: (thanks to our readers for the suggestions)

Alberto’s Continental - Yes, its a restaurant but Alberto also sells antiques. Just ask! Located at the corner of Calle 57 and Calle 66.

Gran Hotel - Downstairs on Calle 60 between Calle 59 and 61 is an antique store.

'Antique' home comes full circle

Bill McClure always gets a second chance at life. The house he owns in Mount Vernon was first offered to him around 1964 for $7,500. Rooted in history, this 6,600-square-foot plantation-style home was once the "poor house" in Lawrence County.

Before retirement accounts, it was a place where people sent low-income elderly "to die," his wife, Donna, said.

In the 1960s it was run-down, had broken toilets and was littered with hay. Bill said, "I wouldn't have it if you'd give it to me." Seated in the west wing of the home, he roars with laughter as he tells the story.

The estate was eventually purchased and renovated by Robert and Dottie Melton.

"They had the vision of gutting this place," he said. The estate changed hands and in 2002 the house was for sale. This time Bill couldn't resist.

"His life has always been a circle. He always gets a second or third chance at something," said Donna, his wife of almost 53 years.

It's like it was meant to be, down to the pair of stained glass lanterns that hang in the kitchen. Years before he bought the house, Bill spotted those lanterns at an auction. He arrived late to the sale and wasn't able to snag them. When he bought this house, the lanterns were already in it. Unbeknownst to him, the previous owners had won the bid.

A huge stained glass window in one of the dining rooms is another gem he scored. He had been in love with it for years after he spotted it in a store, which was repairing the window. Years later, he saw an auction in the paper and realized it was the same stained glass window that captured his attention. Again, he arrived late to the auction and the window had been sold to a dealer. After some haggling, Bill bought it from the dealer.

There are a slew treasures in this home. The oak staircase was imported from Europe in 1971 and is at least 230 years old. A clock in the foyer is from 1776.

Bill has always been a sucker for antiques and jokes he "antiques" the way some women shop.

"He does his antiquing when I'm not there and then I come home and find them in the closet," Donna said.

Bill and Donna married nearly 53 years ago. They started dating when Bill returned from the Korean War and Donna was working at Alexander Cafe, a restaurant Bill co-owned. He spent 60 years in the restaurant business and still owns McClure Plantation Restaurant in Mount Vernon.

Early in their marriage, they started buying real estate. They would run the restaurant by day and renovate homes by night. They both adore this home. Bill's favorite feature is a fireplace mantle that reads: "East- West- Home's Best." Donna loves the foyer.

"I think the entrance is most impressive. It gives you an uplifting feeling," she said.

Donna's favorite fixture in the house is "me," Bill joked as he leaned on a bronze statue.

Antique Salt Bags

I purchased these antique salt bags from a textile restorer Ahmad al Nakhal who runs a small shop near the Jeron Gate behind the Omayad Mosque in Damascus. I was introduced to Ahmad by Monika Spahl a German textile artist living in Damascus ( her work is wonderful). His collection of tribal rugs and salt bags and cushion covers was seriously wonderful and he was very knowledgeable about them all. The bags i purchased are between 60-80 years old and are Turkoman ( it is difficult to get textiles woven in Syria these days) Ahmad also proved to be a very skilled textile restorer and he showed us how he went about it and he told us how he had learnt his trade starting as a boy of 10 and gradually becoming so impassioned by the textiles themselves that he not only reached a very high level of skill in restoration but also in knowledeg of the different weavings from the region. We spent many delightful hours in Ahmad's shop,hearing stories of how he collected and stories of his childhood and modern day life in Damascus. If anyone should go to Syria his shop is well worth a visit- he may not be the cheapest woven textile seller in Damascus but his textiles are genuine and he can tell you so much about them. His little library of books was also wonderful and I wished I had written down all the titles.

I chose these particular salt bags because they were so colourful- and of course I like anything wioth woven reds or terracotta colours.

Antiques (and CEO’s) Roadshow

It’s every collector’s dream: take a few bucks spent at a yard-sale or a flea market and turn it into a jackpot . . . earning a staggeringly high rate of return on one’s original investment. This is Antiques Roadshow, the wildly poplar (okay, it’s not “Dancing with the Used-to-be and Never-really-quite-were Stars”, but it still draws a pretty good audience.)

I love the PBS show, where folks from around the country bring in art, ceramics, bric-a-brac, Civil War swords, and mechanical toys, and wait a few dozen hours in line to find out if they are chumps or brilliant investment strategists. Just like Wall Street, except the market is a little less fungible, a little less liquid, and the bids and offers are quite as deep.

How about a landscape painting acquired for $1.50 at a Salvation Army “half price” sale and valued at up to $15,000; a $5 garage-sale art pottery vase, grabbed for less than $5, now worth around $15,000; a 19th-century album of watercolor paintings, got for twenty-five cents at a yard sale and now worth, presumably, $25,000.

You see some pretty incredible stuff and some great ROIs. What you don’t see, of course, is all those folks who bought a Leroy Neiman print of Mohammed Ali, Joe Montana, Arnold Palmer or Lafitte Pincay in 1979 for $3,500 who have absolutely doubled their money. Heads up folks! If you invested $3,500 in 1979 and got back $7,000 today, you earned a compounded annual rate of return on investment of around 2.8%. If you loved having you Thomas Kinkade or Margaret Keane painting or print over your mantle for a couple of decades, I’m not going to tell you you’re an idiot. That’s because I won’t for a second attempt to value your psychic, personal, ethereal return on that acquisition / investment. I might offer a comment on your taste in art, but few can deny that if you like the work, then it has genuine value to you. And stick with that.

But, don’t tell folks who visit your house that you could sell the Keane or the Neiman or, for that matter, the knockoff oriental rugs, for hundreds of thousands of dollars, even if they’ll believe it. If you get 2.8% annually on a piece of artwork that decorates your house and enriches your soul and your life . . . and you sell it . . . and work out legally with the IRS how much capital gain taxes you should pay . . . then I’ve got no argument with you.

But don’t tell me or any other investment expert that you’re investing in Thomas Kincade glicees that have an original print run of 2.8 million and expect us to believe either of the following: that you know what you’re talking about, or you’re not a prevaricator.

Probably the most basic problem is that people compare the end result with the initial investment and ignore the time-honored “time value of money”. Doubling or trebling or quintupling your investment is all very well and good . . . and meaningless. Unless you factor in the time period over which the investment was made.

It is among the most fundamental and consequential of beginner investment blunders. For example, “I bought my house for $875,000 and I just got an offer of $3.5 million. I really bought it right!”

Maybe not. You bought the house thirty-five years ago. You paid maintenance, property taxes, insurance, etc. and got a return of maybe 4.5% per annum compounded, before all those expenses.

If you’d invested the same funds in a low-expense, no-load Vanguard index fund for thirty-five years, you’d have perhaps $12 to $14 million, versus the $3.5 mil you got out of your house.

In both cases, with the right tax vehicle or structure, you can defer your taxes so that the ROI is compounded on a pre-tax basis, one of the most powerful investment tools that passes muster with the Internal Revenue Service.

Your fees – both operating fees and management fees - in a low-cost, no-load diversified fund are negligible, and you don’t have to put on a new roof, paint the siding, put in a new kitchen, or mow the lawn. To make the investments apples-to-apples however, you do have to find a place to live . . . that is, you have to subtract fair-market-value rental of your residence from the Vanguard mutual fund example, to be able to compare the two cases fairly.

Houses, antiques and stocks of publicly-traded companies are vastly different commodities. In the stock market, there are millions upon millions of investment appraisers giving you by-the-second appraisals of what they think your investment is worth. There’s a standing offer to buy your “antique” (shares of General Motors or IBM?) and they will guarantee the price within a few seconds and to the penny!

Try that with a Ming vase or a Tabriz or Keran rug. Early American furniture investments are decidedly less liquid and your feedback on FMV is, how might one say, more problematic.

Houses, unless you own a small horse farm surrounded by housing developments, city parkland, and fronted by railroad tracks, are reasonably measurable as to value.

Whether they like it or not (and most don’t) CEOs’ corporate investments (or rather YOUR investment which, for a fee, they manage on your behalf) get valued continually. Every day, on places like the NYSE, there is a specialty appraisal forum, where thousands of experts get together to decide what they think your investment is worth. And the value of your investment gets re-set every day . . . not only every day, but every nano-second.

Maybe you could think of Antiques Roadshow as the NASDAQ and the NYSE in slow motion. Personally, I prefer the immediacy of information and the accountability – my own for buying a stock and the accountability of the CEO who presumably leads the enterprise - that comes with being able to measure my investment without having to turn on Public Broadcasting on Sunday night and see if maybe, just maybe, this time someone’s got a rare pair of late Victorian matching oil lamp wall arm holders and brackets or an exceptional pair of mid-19th Century large Tole Peinte tea bins . . . probably made in Philadelphia.